At the age of Aiden Byrne was the youngest chef to ever win a Michelin Star, when he was Head Chef at Adlards Restaurant in Norwich. Until recently he was in charge at the Dorchester, building a reputation for developing modern British food to a lighter style while retaining Britain’s culinary heritage.

Whilst  Aiden states his major culinary influence was his old boss at Adlards and Pied a Terre, Tom Aikens, we can see elements of Inspiration from the likes of Heston Blumenthal and Ferran Adria at El Bulli in Spain. Byrne combines flavours and textures in surprising ways. Examples include beetroot and avocado mousse with yogurt sorbet and - for dessert - orange and olive oil cake with candied celery.

Once upon a time, Byrne was not a fan of either kidneys or curry, but he bravely stepped out of his comfort zone with the help of an Indian sous chef called Binu. Now he makes a curry sauce for lamb’s kidneys, which, he says ‘I could eat by the panful like this’.

Veal revival

Byrne is keen to bring veal back to the menu and he takes care to explain why. White veal production is indeed cruel and unethical, which accounts for its unpopularity.  But he stresses that British rosé veal is ‘produced to the highest welfare standards, has pink, not white flesh, and it is tender and delicately flavoured.’ 

Aiden Byrne’s journey from Liverpool council estate to fine dining at the Dorchester is a heartening story of mentoring and support all the way through catering college and beyond. It shows that anyone can make it as a chef. Now he has come full circle with a move back to the North West, where he is settling in at the Church Green at Lymm, in Cheshire.

The colour photography in this book is stunning. Aiden took a lot of persuading to write the book because he didn’t think he had enough material. But his former boss and mentor Tom Aikens talked him into it, and he is now planning another one for amateur cooks.

Made in Great Britain by Aiden Byrne, published by New Holland, rrp £25 (less in Amazon)

Find out more about Aiden Byrne

Find out more about rosé veal from Heaves Farm at Levens